How do Ocean Waves Form?
- Waves are created by energy passing through water, making water move in a circular motion.
- Waves are caused by winds. These surface waves are created due to the friction between the wind and surface water. This causes the energy to be transferred from the wind to water, thus causing waves.
- When the wind blows across the surface of the ocean, the continuous disturbance creates a wave. Energy is transferred from molecule to molecule, in order to form waves. The water does not travel with the waves; it is only the energy that is moving. Water only moves up and down with the waves.
- When the winds are extremely strong, they can cause hurricanes. Extremely long waves can be caused by strong winds and these are called tsunamis. The gravitational pull of the sun and the moon also is another reason for causing ocean waves. These waves are called tides or tidal waves.